A Relaxing Journey for Me, a Sleepless Night for Them

Departing Tokyo Station at 9:50 p.m., the train journey to Izumo lasts 12 hours. We had reserved separate compartments, ensuring we showered at home beforehand since the train's showers operate on a first-come, first-served basis.

After leaving, we gathered in my sister’s compartment with snacks and drinks bought at Tokyo Station. The three of us sharing a single bed felt like we were in our secret hideout. Our compartments were located on the lower level of the two-story train, and the views from the sleeping areas were unforgettable. Like excited schoolgirls, we enjoyed a delightful night together.

As an admirer of Agatha Christie, I have long been fascinated by the Orient Express. However, the Sunrise Express isn't a luxurious sleeper train; it lacks a dining car for gourmet meals, elegant lounges, and any mysteries to solve!

The cozy compartments were pleasantly simple and comfortable for sleeping. Alone in the dark, lulled by the rhythmic sounds of the train, I drifted off to sleep shortly after midnight. Unfortunately, my mom and sister struggled to find rest due to the train's movement. If you're sensitive to noise or motion, don't forget earplugs or motion sickness remedies.

Around 6 a.m., the announcement of our arrival at Okayama Station woke me. I watched as the train conductor uncoupled the cars to form two separate trains, one for Izumo-shi and the other for Takamatsu. Even those who aren't train enthusiasts can appreciate such small moments.

The train's scenery transformed into a breathtaking landscape as we passed the majestic Mt. Daisen in Tottori and followed the expansive shores of Lake Shinji in Shimane Prefecture. Finally, our exhilarating overnight journey concluded at Izumo-shi Station!

A Side Trip Before Reaching Izumo Taisha Shrine

We switched to a local Ichibata-densha train. This charming, conductorless, two-car train appeared delightful compared to the crowded commuter trains I usually ride. The relaxed atmosphere helped us unwind.

Seated in the vintage-style train seats, we began discussing unusual topics. My mom shared stories of her first love and how she met my dad, something she hadn't mentioned in decades. The joyful spirit of the trip likely encouraged her to open up. Our family connections had been strained, so this moment meant a lot to me.

Our first stop before visiting the Izumo Taisha shrine was Inasa Beach, located about a kilometer west of the grand shrine. This beach is famed for welcoming gods from across Japan during October in the old lunar calendar. This explains why the term for October is ??? (kami-ari-zuki), or “the month of many gods” in the Izumo region, while the rest of Japan calls it ??? (kan-na-zuki), or “the month without gods.”

From the preparation videos my sister shared, I learned that visitors traditionally collect sand from the beach as an offering to Izumo Taisha shrine. Although the beach was within walking distance, we opted for a taxi to avoid getting soaked by the chilly rain.

Despite the short distance, our female driver was incredibly hospitable, speaking with a local accent that made her seem even friendlier. She recommended her favorite Izumo soba restaurant for lunch and encouraged us not to be disheartened by the weather, claiming, “This rain purifies shrine visitors; it’s a blessing from the gods.”

We arrived at a beautiful white beach with a solitary island. Bentenjima is a large spherical island topped with a modest temple dedicated to the sea goddess.

After collecting some white sand, we were ready to visit the Izumo Taisha shrine. We walked along the kami-mukae-no-michi, or “Gods’ Welcome Road,” the path taken by the Japanese gods leading to the shrine. Even though local residents live along this road, the pavement is distinctively colored, and the houses are adorned with flower boxes to greet the gods. My mother, who loves flowers, frequently paused to admire them.

At Last, We Arrive at Izumo Taisha Shrine!

Upon seeing the iconic torii gates, we knew we were close to the grand shrine. The shrine features four distinct torii gates made from stone, steel, iron, and copper, marking the entry to the Shinto sanctuary. Passing through each gate brings visitors closer to the divine.

The path from the second torii gate to the third is beautifully lined with pine trees. We offered our prayers at the main shrine and observed the structure where the gathering gods are believed to reside. We exchanged the sand we had collected from the beach for sand offered to us at the shrine. According to legend, placing this sand at the four corners of one’s home brings good fortune and wards off evil spirits.

Throughout the shrine grounds, small stone rabbit statues can be found, linked to the Japanese myth of “The White Rabbit of Inaba.” In brief, a benevolent god named Okuninushi saved a white rabbit's life, and in gratitude, the rabbit played matchmaker for Okuninushi and his partner.

Okuninushi is enshrined at Izumo Taisha, which is why the shrine features numerous rabbit statues and is associated with blessings for positive relationships. The meeting of Okuninushi and eight million other gods is also said to relate to matchmaking.

These tales enchanted me. It’s a sacred site, yet it feels warm and inviting!

Indeed, shrines and temples can be quite peaceful and welcoming. If it's your first time visiting Japan, you might feel anxious about entering such sacred spaces, worrying about etiquette. However, as long as you show respect in your thoughts, your actions will not be questioned. Your beliefs won’t be scrutinized, and you won't be approached.

Enjoying the Flavors of Shimane

One of the highlights of any trip is indulging in local cuisine. What should we try? Here are some culinary delights to savor in Shimane!

Izumo Soba: Soba are buckwheat noodles enjoyed throughout Japan, and Izumo soba is celebrated as one of the country's top three varieties. Served in stackable round lacquerware dishes, the boiled soba is garnished with green onions, seaweed, grated radish, dried bonito flakes, and other toppings.

We embraced the local tradition of eating the top layer of soba with broth and pouring the remaining broth onto the lower layers.

Zenzai: This sweet dish consists of adzuki beans boiled in sugar. In Izumo, the ritual involves boiling rice cakes and adzuki beans as offerings to the gods to ensure their safe return. Initially termed ??? (zinzai-mochi), the name evolved over time to “zenzai.” Cafes around Izumo shrine serve delicious zenzai.

Nodoguro: Known as blackthroat seaperch, nodoguro is a prized fish caught along the Sea of Japan coast near Toyama. This premium fish is rare outside Shimane, where I enjoyed a generous bowl of rice topped with fresh nodoguro at an affordable price.

Sake: Although its origins are debated, a myth suggests Izumo is the birthplace of this traditional Japanese rice wine. The god Susano-o is said to have used sake to defeat an eight-headed monster.

You can explore local sake breweries or dine at restaurants serving sake, which pairs well with fresh fish like nodoguro!

Shijimi Clams: Lake Shinji, visible from the train, is famous for its shijimi (freshwater mussels). Enjoy a bowl of shijimi soup, known for its delicate and nourishing flavor—perfect for revitalizing yourself. Shijimi is also reputed to help alleviate hangovers, making it an ideal companion for a night out!

Reflections on Our Journey

Our final stop was the Adachi Museum of Art, home to an exceptional collection of modern and contemporary Japanese art, along with an award-winning Japanese garden.

The meticulously maintained garden appeared like a painting when viewed through a window. Known for showcasing different aspects throughout the seasons, it is often referred to as “a living Japanese painting.”

During our visit, the rain enhanced the garden's beauty as it sparkled on the black rocks. My mother, a true nature enthusiast, stood captivated by the stunning landscape, losing track of time.

The white gravel and pine garden draws inspiration from the works of Taikan Yokoyama, a prominent figure in pre-World War II Japanese art. This garden embodies the museum founder’s vision of curating Yokoyama's artworks, which are inspired by the tranquility of nature, including motifs like Mt. Fuji, cherry blossoms, and autumn foliage.

Visitors can enjoy seasonal exhibitions featuring up to 120 works. If you're interested in experiencing Japanese aesthetics during your travels, this museum is certainly worth a visit.

Although our two-day adventure felt like a whirlwind, it was immensely rewarding. We returned home with strengthened bonds and enriched perspectives.